Parma.
Parma is perhaps one of the best known areas of Italy. Perhaps not geographically, but the name. The name parma is the root of the infamous Parmesan cheese as its known in the states or the good shit, Parmeseiano Reggiano cheese.
A quick background on the geography of Parma. Parma is located north of Florence within the mountains, however, it is not mountainous, it is like a slice of the midwest, lets say Indiana (complete with corn and other grain fields) nestled in the north eastern Tennessee mountains. This geography lends itself to perfect areas to raise cattle and pigs, which make up two of the most renown ingredients from this area, Parmeseiano Reggiano and Pruchutto di Parma.
We first visited the factory for Parmesieano Reggiano cheese. This was one of the major reasons I chose this program over the others. This factory was not a huge, expansive factory, yet a small little family-run dairy that has owned the cattle for generations and decided to begin making cheese in 2000.
The process of making cheese begins with milk. Two types, fresh morning milk and the milk from the day before, which is placed a large rectangular vat that is jacketed with water. The milks are then combined an placed in a copper lined kettle which is jacketed with steam. From there a natural coulagant made from calf stomach is added which helps separate the curds from the whey. The curds are separated into small pieces and allowed to settle to the bottom. After they have settled, they are pulled up using cheese cloth and separated and then placed in plastic molds for 2-3 days. From there, they are placed in metal molds with holes in it for another 2-3 days. After that, they are embossed with the signature print of the rind before being submerged in to a brine for approx. 2 weeks. The brine is simple: seasalt and water. nothing else.
After brining for the 2 weeks, they head to a drying room where the excess liquid is allowed to evaporate over a course of 3 days. This is where the aging process begins. After leaving the drying room, they are placed on wooden shelves for another 24 months to age. Within that 24 months, the wheels are rotated an flipped. At 12 months, they are inspected, this is when it is determined wether the cheese meets the standards of parmeseano reggiano. The inspector uses a special hammer where they tap all around, top and bottom of the cheese to check the sound. If it does not meet standards, it must be stripped of its rind and can be sold as "B" grade, or another sub-quality grade.
In the end, it takes 500 liters to make 1 wheel of cheese that weighs 44 kilos in the end (there is a loss of 4 kilos over the process).
Second we visited pruchutto di parma factory that is home to over 5,000 legs of pruchutto. For those who don't know what pruchutto is, I am greatly sorry that you have not experienced it in all its glory. I will not explain what it is, yet share the process of how it is made.
First, the factory receives the hind legs of pigs within 5 days of slaughter. These are a special type of pig that is allowed to come from only certain areas. They are trimmed a bit and then salted with sea salt. From there, they are placed on wooden shelves and cured for 2 weeks. After 2 weeks, they are cleaned of the salt, massaged (to tenderize) and the re-salted and cured for another 2 weeks. At the end of that 2 weeks, they are cleaned again, and are hung by ropes around the hoof. After those 2 weeks, they are trimmed and stored for another 24 months. They are moved to different climates over the 24 months to assist in the aging process.
The ideal, and minimum time for pruchutto di parma is 24 months. This process is inspected like the making of the cheese and is tested using a hoarse bone that is inserted against the pig bone. This tests to see if the meat has gone rancid as part of the curing process. The bone is smelled to tell.
After the aging process is done, the meat will have lost 30-40% of its weight.
Finally we went to Modena to taste Balsamic Traditionale. This is REAL balsamic vinegar. An interesting fact is the distinction between Balsamic Modena Traditonale and Balsamic di Mondena. Balsamic traditonale must have every step preformed in Modena and be in a certain size and shaped bottle as well be aged a minimum of 12 months. Balsamic di Modena can be made anywhere in the world, yet bottled in Modena in any size bottle.
The process begins with picking grapes and cooking them for 48 hours to extract the sugars and break them down. From there, the juices are added to barrels made from a variety of woods. Unlike wine, the barrels are re-used year to year and just a minimum amount is transfered into the barrel in front of it.
Picture a series of 6 barrels, each one decreasing in size. The barrels are placed in a attic (because of the micro-climate created) with a hole in the side of the barrel that is covered with linen cloth. Approx. 10% evaporates annually from each barrel. Therefore, the smallest, and oldest barrel is topped off with the next to oldest barrel and so on and so forth. This creates room in the biggest barrel where the new grape mash is added. This perpetual process continues year after year. By the time the vinegar reaches a certain barrel, it is considered to be 12 years, and the same for 25 years. There are years in between that are bottled as well, but are not considered DOC. Each barrel is made from a different type of wood including Oak and Cherry.
The factory we visited was the largest and was home to only 3,000 barrels of vinegar. The oldest barrel dates to 1860. All in all, they produce countless of varieties of balsamic including a 50 yr. old DOC, white, 6 year, apple, and orange balsamcs. In the states, the 12 year retails for just over $100 at williams-sonoma and the 24 for over $200. We did a quick tasting of the products and I was astonished by the flavor and richness, and quite frankly lack of acidy that is found in shitty american balsamic. I splurged and bought a bottle of 12 year, 24 year and white all under $200 us.
After we returned, we had caught word of an American dinner in Florence. Being a bit homesick, at least of food, yes, yes go ahead an trash talk now. We sat out to find it. When we arrived, we were warmed by the familiarity and the all-english menu. I had a bacon cheeseburger with a egg on top, a favorite of mine along with french fries and a chocolate shake. This satisfied the need in me to eat something greasy and tasty. While, not the best burger I have ever had, It was damn good.
Now it is time for me to get some sleep. I have been going since 4 am, with minor naps on the bus and its past 1am here.
Always remember that the longer something ages doesn't make it better, yet know when the time is right to take advantage of the best product.
Until-
Matt
No comments:
Post a Comment