Sunday, August 7, 2011

Day 53-> Island in the Sun

The Greek Islands.

Just a few miles off the mainland is an hour boat ride from the port of Piraeus, are what begins the series of Greek Islands. One of the most infamous is the island of Hydra.

Hydra is an hour's ride by boat through choppy waters (close eyes turn up iPod and fall asleep before things get too rough).

Hydra is unique to say the least. Motorcars are not allowed on the island (there are 2 here: a trash truck and a maintenance truck owned by the government). All other transportation is by foot or donkey. Yes, donkey.

Something else about Hydra is there is not much to do here. This is an ideal vacation relaxation city. There is one museum, that is passable to say the least. There are a handful of overpriced shops and some breathtaking views and restaurants.

This is one of those places that is in the vacation brochures. This is one of those places that has houses on the side of the hill with clay tile roofs. This is one of those places.

This was what I needed. Ive needed relaxation. Yes, go ahead and say it. "you're in Europe, you are on vacation, etc. etc." but I needed it. I needed a day that didn't involve extreme site seeing, museums, and crowds. This is what I needed. This is one of those places where the term island time comes to life.

My food adventures on the island brought me to a quaint bakery where a little old lady was running and through her broken English, and my lack of Greek managed to get a cookie that resembled wedding cookies, made with fruit dusted in powdered sugar and baklava. Usually, traditional dishes are a bit more conservative than their American interpretation. This is an exception. The baklava was around 3 inches tall of ooey gooey crispness. For dinner I had fish that was served head and skin on along sliced cucumber and tomato.

I walked around the island a bit more and took in a beautiful sunset before heading back to Athens to grab a late night snack of a Gyro.


Sometimes leaving behind modern convinces, you can find a part of life you never knew was missing.

Until-

Matt

Day 52-> Its all Greek to me

I love good museums. 
What makes a good museum? 
First, it must have a point. It can't be just a mess of stuff in one spot. From there, it needs to be logically organized. Well lit, easy to navigate, explanations, etc. are all requirements to be classified as a good museum. 

Athens' national archeological museum is one of those museums that qualify as being a good museum. In fact, it may qualify as being a great museum. The museum covers Greek history from the ancient to the respectfully modern. All of the exhibits have english explanations and are laid out in a fashion that is in chronological order. 

It was quite amazing to see art evolve from man experimenting with sculptures in 5,000 B.C. yes that's five thousand years before Christ. or 7,000 years ago. to the different ages of Greek style (Golden, Bronze, Archaic, Classical, etc.) One of the most interesting things about the art is the evolution of the human body. Man has seemed to always strive to explore what is the perfect human form. There also scenes on pottery of sports, sex, and other daily activities.

Aside from the sculptures, the most impressive aspect of the museum is the collection of pottery and glass. The pottery collection spans as far as the eye can see, with a gallery dedicated solely to the pottery. The collection of glass is breath taking. To see glass lamps that are thousands of years old that are see through because of the age. 

After leaving the museum, I went on a self-guided tour of the city. This is where the fun started. 

I began my tour outside the parliament house in Syntagma Square. The square is is the home to the birth of democracy in Greece and continues to be a spot where protestors gather to well, protest. This is the heart of modern Athens. My tour took me past various sights throughout the city that are rather un-notable aside from the home of the Greek Orthodox Church. 

Part of my tour was to take me back to the Acropolis, which I visited yesterday so I decided to skip that part of the tour. 

This is where things get interesting. I decided to head to the next stop on the tour, and got a bit turned around to say the least. This is where my day got fun (at 6:00 in the afternoon). I the more i thought knew where I was the more lost I got. I could not seem to gain my bearings. Yet, it was one of the most scenic views of the city as well as handfuls of various temples that varied in purpose and size. After 5 hours I finally made it back to my hostel. In no ways am I complaining about getting lost. First, I didn't have any plans for the rest of the day. Second, I feel that it is the best way to get in touch with the city and the people that live there. 


Take in the moment before it passes you by. 

Until-

Matt

Day 51-> A date with Athena

There are a handful of sights in the world that are synonymous with their location. The coliseum, eiffel tower, houses of parliament, empire state building, and the Parthenon.

The Parthenon is the oldest out of all these structures, and perhaps one of the oldest man-made structures in the world, aside from the pyramids.

But more on the parthenon later, first to the acropolis museum.

The acropolis museum is the largest collection of artifacts from atop the acropolis in Athens. The museum opened in 2009 and is Athens' newest. The museum sits atop a archeological dig site covered by glass. As you enter the museum, the you can see where workers continue to excavate the ruins of an ancient community that thrived in the shadow of the acropolis. The glass floors continue throughout the museum along with glass and concrete walls creating an ultra-modern feel that is juxtaposed with artifacts that date to several centuries BC.

Normally, I love museums. I love soaking in history and seeing artifacts that give me a glimpse into how people used to live. However, this museum does not qualify as one I would enjoy re-visiting. The artifacts are not laid out in a logical order. Instead, they are spastically arranged on lower levels of the museum with a large central staircase providing guests access to what seems to be the crowing jewel of the museum, a re-construction of the facades of the Parthenon. Really cool, right? yes and no. If anyone recalls my previous post from when I was in London and visited the National museum you will also recall the fact that it was the single largest collection of artifacts from the Parthenon including much of the friezes that surrounded the top of the building. So what is on display in Athens are poorly reproduced plaster copies of what is in London.

After going to the museum, which in theory would provide more of an insight of the Acropolis prior to visiting. So off to the Acropolis. For those who do not know what the Acropolis is, its the central hill in Athens. It was the home to the temples of the gods. Perhaps the most infamous is the temple of Athena, the Parthenon. Before you can get to the Parthenon, you must climb to the top of Acropolis hill.

The journey to the top of the hill involves a winding path through a forrest of olive trees and pass a two theaters, one that is in excellent condition and has been restored and is still used for events today, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and Theater or Dionysus which now isn't much more than a pile of rubble. After passing these sites winding up the hill taking a path that has been taken for over 2,000 years it hits you: I am really here. I am really walking in the same path that accent Greeks took in their togas. Once atop the hill, the Propylaea greets you.

The Propylaea is the entrance gate to the top of Acropolis hill. The remains are grand to say the least. Even the remains are grand. Large Ionic columns greet you as you enter through the structure. To the left and right are "lesser" temples that have been reconstructed and restored over the years. As pass through the structure, you cannot help to think of the fact that this is the same way that Athenians would enter during the grand celebrations.

Before you lies the remains of two sites: the Parthenon and Erechtheion. The Erechtheion is perhaps the more architecturally impressive though greatly overshadowed by the Parthenon on the right. This too, served as a temple to Athena but also Poseidon. This is the place where Poseidon and Athena battled out for control over the city, the victor is still apparent through the naming of the city, Athens.

Across from the Erechteion is the crowing jewel of the Acropolis, the Parthenon. The Parthenon is Athena's temple. It took less than a decade to complete. An engineering feat in itself. The structure of the Parthenon does not need to be described, it is infamous. Tall columns: a series of Ionic, Doric and Corinthian all arranged to give a sense of grander. The inside was divided into a series of rooms with the inside being where only the most elite were allowed in where they were greeted by a 40 foot statue of Athena with Nike which was decorated with elaborate gowns that were made from the finest materials along with offerings.

The rest of the hill is mostly ruins along with an incredible view of the city and even the port.

After my visit to Acropolis hill, I made my way down to Mars hill then Ancient Agora. (fast forward several hundred years along with ups and downs of wars, victories, losses, and foreign rule)

Mars hill is a rocky mound made out of marble that is quite slippery even in the hot, dryness of Athens. The hill has great significance for not only Greek history but also Christian history. It was from this hill that the Apostle Paul preached to the Athenian people converting them to a newly established religion known as Christianity.

Next was Ancient Agora. Ancient Agora is on the backside of Mars Hill. Ancient Agora was the spot in Ancient Greece. This is where politics were talked, worshipers worshiped, shopped, socialized and were entertained. All here. This area also has Biblical significance as well. This is Acts 17:15.
Today, the area is mostly ruins as well but does feature a quaint museum that is free with admission into the area.

After my stroll through Ancient Agora, I headed back to the hostel then went out for dinner.



Sometimes you may be walking in the footsteps of history and may not realize it.

Until-

Matt

Day 50-> tales of the plane

Lunch in Berlin, dinner in Athens.

Lunch, schnitzel with a spicy tomato sauce with fries and a beer. €5.

Dinner, pork gyro and an unnamed savory cheese custard in phillo. €4.

Snack of fresh orange juice and watermelon at the airport €10.

Flying takes forever. My 2 hour flight took me heading to the airport, which the line was down about half way which made me hail a cab, unsuccessfully then found a cab stand where I got to the airport just in time.

One in Athens, I had to head to the metro which I waited 15 minutes for which sat on the platform then another 1hour ride. So, my quest to the airport which started at 12:45 ended at 10:45 pm. All for a 2 hour flight.

Earlier in the day, I explored the city a bit, in the sun before grabbing lunch and heading out.


Flying sucks.


-Until

Matt

Day 49 -> Concentrate.

The Holocaust.

This is perhaps Germany's darkest point in history.

A country in despair from an economic crisis as well as a soviet rule is looking for hope. They grab at straws for anything they can find. Hitler makes his rise to leadership. There is hope, there is a promise of prosperity, for the German people.

However, their leader and his staff sought more than prosperity for all peoples, they sought in creating a pure race. This race would be free of Jews, homosexuals, Christians, and anyone else who spoke out in opposition to or simply didn't meet specifications of the government. But what to do with these people?

Just to kill them would be unethical. And why would you kill someone who though they oppose you can help you.

How about they be sent to labor camps. These camps we will teach these people through hard work, excersise, and other methods that the third reich is good, is divine, is what is ideal for not only Germany but the world.

I decided to visit a concentration camp today. Why? I feel that it serves as both a memorial as well as a learning experience. This is not something that is meant to be joyful, nor is it meant to be something even to be called good. Because it's not. There are no two ways around it. What happened here was horrible. There is no excuse or logical reason behind it.

The camp I visited was Swachausen (sp). It was built in 1933 amongst the Olympic games. It is just north of the town of Orenburg, approximately 45 minutes by rail north of Berlin.

The camp was a smaller camp during the war and was used primarily as either a hold for transfer camp or a labor camp. Its uses varied as people were shipped there.

Today, the camp is a memorial to those lives lost there. Much of the camp was destroyed while it lay empty after its use up until 1955. Yes, 1955. 10 years after the wart was continued to house prisoners by the soviets. When the camp was liberated after the war, not all prisoners were let free.

After the camp closed in the 50's it "reopened" as a memorial for those who had survived giving them the opportunity to revisit. A bias museum later opened not acknowledging any harm done, yet deaths from natural causes and it was used to help the war effort. The barracks were left to fall apart as interest diminished during the height of the cold war.

After the reunification of Germany, an interest in the camp was regenerated and parts were restored and a more proper museum opened. When the museum opened in the 90's there was a lot of extremist movements including the burning of one of the reconstructed barracks.

Today, the camp continues efforts to teach guests what happened there. A more accurate reality, if not even more than what we see in the states. This can be contributed to the fact that it is one camp's story that is being told.

I would write more of the history, numbers, facts, design, etc. But I feel that would be purposeless. It is one of those things that must bee seen first hand. During my visit, it was cold and rainy. I had to walk close to 2.5 miles to get to the camp parts in the mud. However, the entire time, both during my visit and traveling, I couldn't help to think how the prisoners must had felt. They would be naked, forced to stand outside for hours on end, prohibited to move. My misery was noting in comparison.

In the museum, there were moments where my heart dropped. One of them was displays of children's items. Another one was a measuring stick used for periodical physicals. Where it appeared the height marker slid up and down was slit that was open to the room next door. They would be shot in the neck or head unsuspectingly. The final moment was on my way out. There was a building I skipped on my way in. I walked in and there was a uniform of an SS officer. The presentation of the uniform made me catch my breath.

To describe how I felt would be impossible. I didn't physically cry, but the inside of me was weeping. My soul cried out for the victims, it morned with them.

Sometimes words can't do justice.

-Until

Matt


Sunday, July 24, 2011

Day 48-> beautiful, wet, Berlin

After an overnight train ride and little sleep I made it to Berlin.

I checked into the hostel around 5:45 am and got some sleep before taking a guided tour of the city.

I usually pass on guided tours, but I knew very little about Berlin geographically and a lot of historic places aren't marked (what a shocker)

Our tour started in Paris Platz. This is the location of Brandenburg Gate as well as the American and French embassies and the hotel that Michael Jackson showed Prince to the crowd.

The gate (archway) is riddled with history. First it was built to commemorate a German victory. It was later stolen by the French (I believe) then brought back here after another German victory. It used to be the gates into the old city from the King's grounds.

The famous footage of German troops marching past Hitler under an arch with Nazi banners on it occurred here.
The Berlin wall was built just on the other side of the gate.

The backside was west Berlin (England, France, US). This was the site where Reagan gave his famous "tear down this wall speech", it also is the spot where David Hasslehof celebrated along with thousands of other Berliners.

The next stop was the reittstag. This building has always been the seat of the German government. But more than that, it plays a pivotal role in Hitler's rise to power. The building was set fire to in Feb. 1933, Hitler, who had just been sworn as Chancellor asked to have 30 days to conduct an investigation against the soviets who were linked to the cause. From there, he had fee reign to imprison anyone. A good portion of the Reittstag's seats were occupied by the communist and there was an upcoming election. Hitler decided to begin a smear campaign against the party giving a smaller party known as the National Socialist party more seats and boosting Hitler to power. Stay tuned for the rest of the story.

Our next stop was the memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe. Please note the title. This is the official name. Not Holocaust memorial, but the memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe. It opened in 2005. The monument is made up of concrete blocks all the same size, with varying heights that create a wave pattern when viewed airily. The monument creates a maze like feel when inside and is impossible to see when someone is coming or where they went. This is one of the biggest theories surrounding the design, to create the feeling of those who felt lost during the war. During it's construction there was lots of controversy, not only because it only recognized Jews but also because the company that dug the footings as well as the chemical coating for the slabs also produced gas for the gas chambers at concentration camps.

A block away from here was our next stop, a parking lot. However, this was no parking lot. Underneath this lot was the location of Hitlers bunker. This is the bunker where he spent the last years of his life away from the outside world, went crazy, got married, then killed himself. The body was then burned, partially then captured by soviets who took it and buried it. They didn't tell anyone they had the body, instead told the Allied forces that Hitler had escaped to South America. The bunker was partly demolished after the war, again in the 1950's and another attempt in the 1990's. A small portion still exists but it's entrance is unknown to the public. A small marker wasn't placed at the site until 2006.

Our next stop was Checkpoint Charlie. This was the final checkpoint to get into West Berlin and in the US territory. A museum and rebuilt photo op checkpoint now mark the location.

After a short stop for lunch we went to tachless. Tachless is a building in which squatters live and produce art. It is covered in graffiti and features some of the coolest urban art I have ever seen. Everything from homed jewelry to paintings to decoupage that would sell for hundreds at urban outfitters. This place is cool. However, it also is in a part of town that has caught the eye of investors. Sounds familiar to a musical set in mid 90s NYC... minus the AIDS storyline.

Then it was off to the west gallery, this was commissioned after the fall of the Berlin wall and is the longest gallery in the world. This wall is a section of the wall that artists from all over the world were commissioned to paint murals on. The some of the murals are obvious in meaning, while others are more obscure.

Finally was Mustafa's Kebap. Rumor has it that kebaps started in Berlin. A kebap is meat, chicken roasted on a rotisserie, shaved and served in a flat bread along with garlic sauce, veg, tomato, and a few fries. Think Gyro sans pita. It was bangin' which was expected judging by the 30 minute wait at 4:30 in the afternoon, in the rain.

Speaking of rain, did I forget to mention that all of this was in the rain? Downpours to showers all day long. Yet, i find the weather most fitting for Berlin. The city is known for it's dark, wet past, and well it's what makes it beautiful.



Sometimes cold rain can provide the perfect setting, even when site-seeing.


-Until

Matt

Day 47 -> I AMsterdam

Aside from the Anne Frank house, beautiful architecture and a notorious counter culture, the city also offers a handful of museums and interesting eating.

Being museumed-out I wanted a change of pace, a change of scenery, so I walked across town to the Van Gogh. The museum is set in a modern park surrounded by lush green grass, fountains and public art, including the I AMsterdam sign which could be equated to I heart NY.
Van Gogh began his career as a painter at the age of 27 with no experience in Holland. He had been a missionary yet felt called in a different direction, so decided to start painting. The museum has an ass load of works from Van Gogh, the single largest collection in the world. Yet, only 3 or 4 pieces of notoriety. Everything else is well, everything else. However, it was cool to see how his style changed in the 10 years that he painted. This contributed to by both geographical location and those around him.

Next I went to the Heineken experience. Before I start getting bashed let me explain. It is a museum built on the site of the first heineken brewery in 1864. The museum takes you through the history as well as shows the process of brewing including original tanks, explanations and demos from real people throughout and videos. It is quite an experience. There of course is a tasting room where guests are shown the proper way to taste beer. In comparison to the World of Coke in Atlanta, this place is awesome. It is educational, hands on and it seems the staff cares about it's visitors rather than moving them through.

Speaking of food. The food in Amsterdam has been rather unique. Amsterdam doesn't have a food scene of it's own, yet it seems like a stoner's paradise of munchies from china town to kebabs, shitty pizza, hot dogs and hamburgers it can all be found here in mass quantities. However, there does seem to be one thing that Hollanders are on to and that's breakfast. It seems that this is the birthplace of American breakfast. Eggs, bacon, and pancakes are all the norm. Most restaurants have either a brunch menu or just serve breakfast late (until 2 pm or so). First up are pancakes. They're thin and filled with savory ingredients like bacon or cheese. However, these are NOT CREPES. These are thin pancakes that are flat with the savory ingredients cooked into them. Second is eggs and toast. This is fried eggs atop toes with you guessed it more protein (bacon or ham) and cheese on top. Heart attack on a plate to say the least, but delicious nonetheless.

Anyway, I'm now on the night train off to Berlin where I will spend a couple of days before beginning my last week of travels.

History tells us a story, it tells us why things are the way they are. History is the answer to life's never ending why?

-Until

Matt