Saffron, the worlds most expensive spice. It's origins can be traced to the middle east. Today the flowers that provide the bright red stamen can be found in warm climates all over the world.
But why am I talking about saffron in Milan? Is it the newest trend in fashion, no is it native to this area, no. However Milan plays an integral role in it's culinary use. In fact, Milan is the birthplace of the use of saffron for culinary purposes in the western world.
A glass maker from Venice was hired to make stained glass windows for Milan's centerpiece: the duomo. The large cathedral is peppered with hundreds of statues on the roof and around the sides and facades and beautiful stained glass windows that date from the 1300's up to the 1980's. The reason for the vastness in years is because Milan was battered hard during WWII and its effects can still be felt today. Anyway, back to the saffron. The glass maker was brought in and he loved to use saffron. He would use it un nearly all the glass he colored. Rumor has it that someone joked about he used it so much, that he should just eat it.
The glassmaker took the joke seriously and fir his daughter's wedding had the chef use it in a dish. This dish would later become as risotto milinase. It is a very simple and basic dish, risotto made with saffron. However the floral characteristics delivered by the saffron create a dish that is complex in flavor.
In honor of history and tradition, I made today about the one thing I wanted to experience in Milan: risotto milinase.
I began my day where the inspiration began: the duomo. This cathedral is the 4th largest in the world. The inside is dark with bright stained glass windows. It is in severe need of restoration, which I don't believe has been done on the inside since WWII. The outside is currently under restoration, making most of the structure covered in scaffolding, perhaps in preparation for the 2015 worlds' fair. The stained glass in the back behind the altar is awe-ing. There is golden color created by the obsessive use of saffron in the glass and is themed after a rose. This is by far the church's piece de resonance.
After seeing the origins, I wanted to taste the product. Risotto milinase and osso bucco. I decided to have a splurge meal considering my not so stellar meals the day before and settled down in a nearby restaurant. The restaurant was situated in an gallery built in the 1800's the gallery has a glass roof and is home to such shops as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Prada. Before anyone starts freaking out, my lunch was €35 with a drink and cover, so not too much of a splurge.
The osso bucco was cooked perfectly. The fat melted in my mouth and the meat fell off the bone, like a killer pot roast but veal and cooked in a tomato infused stock. Then there is the marrow. I can remember getting fussed at when I was younger for sticking my finger in the ham and eating the marrow. I knew I was on to something then, and here was the dish of all marrow eating. I scraped every bit of marrow out of the center of the bone and ate all of it, short of sucking the bone ( if I wasn't at such a nice restaurant I would had). Needless to say, the risotto was incredible. Bright yellow, a bit runny. Al dente. This was worth the money.
Before I forget, the bread they served was quite different from anything I have had in a restaurant. They served 4 types of bread: a caper berry roll, almond, walnut, and traditional white bread.
After lunch, I decided to take part in the other thing Milan is known for: fashion. I visited countless stores (only spent money at one that was having a really good sale) as well as the Abercrombie & Fitch flagship store. This store was amazing. Everything was perfectly folded, even mor amazing considering the crowd.
Dinner once again was a flop. Milan isn't like the other cities I have visited that have nightlife and restaurants that stay open late. In fact, I saw only a handful of bars open and no restaurants that were notable.
Everything we eat has a story behind it. Take a moment and learn a bit about it, it may change both the way you eat and see the world.
-Until
Matt
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